Monday, February 15, 2016

Iroquois Floral Bags with Elongated Leaf Motifs (early to mid-1850s to the 1860s)

I came across a couple of interesting old images recently that I thought readers might find of interest. The first is a carte-de-visite (CDV) of a young woman dressed as an Indian and wearing an Iroquois beaded bag (figure 1). The second is a Daguerreotype of a young girl with a slightly earlier style of Iroquois bag that is decorated with ovate (somewhat egg-shaped) floral motifs (figure 2).

Figure 1 - 1860s CDV of a young woman wearing an Iroquois floral bag decorated with elongated leaf motifs. She was likely part of a theatrical production.
Detail of the bag in figure 1

Figure 2 - Circa 1850 Daguerreotype of a young girl with and Iroquois floral bag with ovate floral motifs and thick stems.

Detail of the bag in figure 2
During the classic period of Haudenosaunee souvenir beadwork (1800–1840s), articles made by Iroquois artisans featured curvilinear and geometric designs and organic motifs. It’s not until the dawn of the Victorian era however that we begin to see the development of a distinctive floral style in Iroquois beadwork (figure 3).  (The Victorian era began in June of 1837 with the reign of Queen Victoria and ended with her death in January, 1901). The origin of this distinctive floral style has been studied by serious collectors and researchers alike for some time now.  Evidence suggests it emerged during the late 1830s, in the waning years of the classic period of Haudenosaunee beadwork.
Figure 3 - A group of Iroquois floral bags with ovate floral motifs and thick stems. Late 1840s to early 1850s.

Perhaps as an accommodation to Victorian fashion trends, the characteristic floral motifs in this style predominated the beadwork that was produced in many Haudenosaunee communities during the mid-19th century. Museum and private collections contain hundreds of examples that were either collected from or are attributed to the Tuscarora, Seneca, Onondaga, Oneida, and Mohawk. Because so many of these bags were sold at Niagara Falls, they are sometimes referred to as the Niagara floral style.
There are several variations within this floral style. The evidence suggests that the earliest examples used a single string of beads to delineate the stems (figure 4) but the style quickly transitioned to using much thicker stems (figure 5).
Figure 4 - Early Iroquois floral bag beaded on silk. The stems are delineated by a single string of beads. Late 1830s. From the collection of Jeff Graybill.


Figure 5 - Detail from a beaded bag illustrating the thick flower stems and ovate flowers that were typical of Iroquois floral work from about the early 1840s to about the middle 1850s. 

 Examples in the style of figure 5 also used ovate flowers. This style was popular from about the early 1840s until about the mid-1850s.The bag illustrated in figure 1 employs a different floral technique that I describe as an elongated leaf motif. Over the years, I’ve seen dated pieces from each of these distinctive floral styles. The photographs and dated pieces of beadwork document’s their evolution from designs with a single bead string stems that first appear in the 1830s, through those with ovate florals in the 1840s and early 1850s finally to examples with elongated leaf motif compositions from the about the mid-1850s through the 1860s.
 Unlike the earliest examples with ovate floral designs that often had bilaterally symmetrical compositions (figure 6), examples with elongated leaf motifs had asymmetrical compositions and the thick floral stems are essentially gone. By the 1860s, beaded decorations are comprised primarily of abstract bead clusters that barely suggested their floral or foliate nature. 
Figure 6 - Iroquois beaded bag with ovate floral motifs in a bilaterally symmetrical design. Circa 1850.

 What follows is a gallery of Iroquois floral bags with elongated leaf motifs along with several other old images where the subject is holding one.









A CDV from the mid -1860s. This image was part of a larger group of  CDVs by the same photographer that featured theatrical actors. The subject is wearing Iroquois moccasins and her bag is decorated with elongated leaf motifs.
Detail of the bag in the previous image.


Early to mid-1850s Daguerreotype of a young girl with an Iroquois floral bag decorated with elongated leaf motifs.

Another Daguerreotype from the mid-1850s of a young girl with an Iroquois beaded bag decorated with elongated leaf motifs.