The bags in figure
1 are generally referred to as puzzle pouches. The name comes from the
split thongs that ingeniously extend from the top to form a puzzle-lock that
kept the bag closed.
Fig. 1 -
A group of early bags on animal hide. These are generally referred to as puzzle
pouches. Early to mid-nineteenth century.
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Though little has
been published about them, they appear to have been popular in places where the
French first established their missions.
Speck pictures two in his monograph on the Iroquois (figure 2).
Fig. 2
- Photo from Speck’s monograph on the Iroquois illustrating two puzzle pouches.
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The one on the left is
on black buckskin, moosehair decorated on one side only and fringed with white
beads. He says it was collected in the Iroquois area. The one on the far right
is also on buckskin, covered on both sides with dyed porcupine quills and edged
with beads. Speck indicates that some of the dyes used were in part commercial
which would suggest a mid-nineteen century date for this piece. He suggests
that the pouch is most likely of Algonkian origin (Speck [1945] 1982:6). The
pouch on the left is quite early and possibly from the last quarter of the
eighteenth century.
Fig. 3 - Puzzle pouch, dated 1834. From the Berkshire Museum collection. |
The Berkshire Museum in Pittsfield,
Massachusetts, has a dated example with an old note that reads: “Procured by
R.C. Baldwin of the Western Indians in 1834” (figure 3).
This pouch has a turtle motif on one side and a central sun motif on the other.
Both Haudenosaunee and Algonquian speaking groups in the northeast were making
these bags and over time, their use spread as far west as the Great Lakes and
beyond (figures 4 and 5).
Fig. 4 -
Puzzle pouch, possibly Sioux. Late 19th to early 20th
century.
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Fig. 5 - Puzzle pouch, possibly Crow, c. 1920. |
The undulating design
along the perimeter of the pouch in figure 6 is
similar to the celestial dome motif on the Iroquois bag in figure 7 but the central motif on this puzzle pouch
looks Delaware. The Delaware were guests of the Oneidas in the early 1700s, and
after the Revolutionary War some of them removed to the Six Nations Reserve in
Canada where this bag might have originated.
Fig. 6
- Puzzle pouch, both sides shown; possibly Delaware. Glass beads (white, pink
and grey), and a silk ribbon edge binding. Early nineteenth century.
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Puzzle pouches date back to the late
eighteenth century and they may have been inspired by the miser or stocking
purses that were popular as early as the mid-eighteenth century (figure 8).
Fig. 8 – Two ladies miser purses. Mid-nineteenth century. |
Although
referred to as miser purses today, they were formally known as "long
purses," "short purses" or "gentlemen's purses." Similar to the puzzle pouches, miser purses were
used to hold coins that were inserted into a central, slotted opening. The
coins were then held secure by rings that were slid down over the outside of
the purse, to guard against the coins falling through the slit. Women generally
wore them hung over a belt. Men’s purses were up to three times longer than a
woman’s purse and men generally kept them in a pocket. Some scholars consider
them a revival of the medieval practice of carrying coins in the extremities of
an old sock. Like the puzzle pouches,
the design ensured that coins were secure and difficult to lose.
Fig. 9
- Puzzle pouch, possibly Haudenosaunee, glass beads (blue and white), silk edge
binding and silk inlays. 4.2 inches
wide. Early nineteenth century.
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The bag in figure 9
is another early example and the surface
of the bag is decorated with porcelain white and translucent blue beads and
edged with a green silk ribbon. It also has silk ribbon inlays. On some early Iroquois
beaded bags the overall field of decoration is monochromatic with the designs
created in all white or nearly all white beadwork, in a characteristically
linear fashion (see figure 3.4 in A
Cherished Curiosity). Beaded on the front of figure
9 is a row of inverted triangles; on the reverse the triangles are
beaded along the left and right margins of the pouch. The example in the
Berkshire Museum has similar triangles along the perimeter. The
anthropologist Frank Speck describes a comparable motif on a Wabanaki wampum
belt from the same period that he said represented the tribal wigwams of the
Penobscot, Passamaquoddy, Maliseet and Mi’kmaq (Speck 1915:501). Of course this
is no assurance that the triangles on the puzzle pouches had the same connotation.
Other designs, such as the diamond, sun, four-directional cross and
double-curve motifs are found on both late-eighteenth century and early-nineteenth
century examples of material culture and these designs may have a shared
sensibility. It’s not likely their signification changed just because the
medium they were applied to did. Some early souvenir bags have these same
beaded triangles and this could be diagnostic of Iroquois work (figure 10).
Fig. 11
- Puzzle pouch, possibly Haudenosaunee. Glass beads, mostly white with a
scattering of red, green, black and blue, 3.4 inches wide. Early to
mid-nineteenth century.
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Fig. 12
- Two diminutive double puzzle pouches, possibly Haudenosaunee. The larger
pouch is 3.2 inches wide, the smaller one is 2.2 inches wide. First half of the
nineteenth century.
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The construction of the double puzzle
pouches in figure 12 are more like the miser
pouches described above that were made to hang over a belt. The diminutive size
of the pouch in figure 12a suggests that it may
have been made for a doll and the beading style points to a 1830s date. It also
has the beaded triangles along the top flap. Figure 12b also
has the triangles on both sides of the bag. Puzzle pouches were almost
exclusively beaded on hide, unlike bags that were made for the souvenir trade which
were usually beaded on cloth.
It’s
also possible that Caroline Parker, the Seneca beadworker from the Tonowanda
Reservation in western New York, produced puzzle pouches. In January of 1850,
Lewis Henry Morgan traveled from the Tonawanda Reservation to Albany where he
delivered a number of objects that he collected from Caroline Parker. She
gifted Morgan’s brother-in-law, Charles T. Potter, a purse, which he
acknowledged in a letter dated January 20, 1850, to Caroline. In it he writes
that her kind present was “very beautiful and acceptable… We could not open the
purse for a good while, it is very ingenious. I shall value it very much
indeed” (Tooker 1994:68).
Fig. 13 - Three mid-nineteenth century Seneca puzzle pouches. These all incorporate a central floral motif that is similar to the one on the pincushion in figure 14. |
It’s impossible to know what this piece
looked like or if it was actually a puzzle pouch although the description
suggests that it was. A number of mid-nineteenth century Seneca puzzle pouches
exist (figure 13) but it would be conjecture to
attribute them to Caroline Parker. She and her immediate family are given credit for producing
most of the beadwork that was illustrated in Lewis Henry Morgan’s Regents
Reports to Cabinet of State (NY) that appeared in the early 1850s. One item is a pincushion (figure 14) with a central
floral/star motif that is similar to those depicted on the pouches in figure 13.
Fig. 14
- Illustration of a pincushion from Morgan’s fifth regent’s report, 1851, plate
18.
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There are still many unanswered questions
about puzzle pouches and very few documented examples exist. Perhaps in time,
we will learn more about them. What follows is a small gallery of puzzle
pouches that I have come across, many of which are of unknown origin.
Fig. 15
- Puzzle pouch, mid to late nineteenth century. Possibly Delaware.
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Fig. 16
- Puzzle pouch, mid to late nineteenth century.
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Fig. 17
- Puzzle pouch. Possibly Meskwaki/Fox.
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Fig. 18
- Puzzle pouch. Looks to be mid-19th century. No other info available.
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Fig 19 -
Puzzle pouch, second half of the nineteenth century. Possibly Potawatomi.
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Fig. 20
- Puzzle pouch, mid to late nineteenth century.
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Instructions for making a puzzle pouch can be found on this website.
If you have an interest in Northeast Woodland beadwork you
might find my book of interest. Titled: A Cherished Curiosity: TheSouvenir Beaded Bag in Historic Haudenosaunee (Iroquois) Art by GerryBiron.
Published in 2012. This is a brand new, hard cover book with dust
jacket. 184 pages and profusely illustrated. 8.5 x 11 inches. ISBN
978-0-9785414-1-5.
Since the early nineteenth century,
Haudenosaunee (Iroquois) beaded bags have been admired and cherished by
travelers to Niagara Falls and other tourist destinations for their aesthetic
beauty, detailed artistry, and the creative spirit of their makers. A
long neglected and misunderstood area of American Indian artistry,
"souvenir" art as it's come to be called, played a crucial role in
the subsistence of many Indian families during the nineteenth century. This
lavishly illustrated history examines these bags – the most extensively
produced dress accessory made by the Haudenosaunee – along with the historical
development of beadworking both as an art form and as a subsistence practice
for Native women.
In this book, the
beadwork is considered in the context of art, fashion, and the tourist economy
of the nineteenth century. Illustrated with over one hundred and fifty of the
most important – and exquisite – examples of these bags, along with a unique
collection of historical photographs of the bags in their original context,
this book provides essential reading for collectors and researchers of this
little understood area of American Indian art.
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Biron,
Gerry
2012 A
Cherished Curiosity: The Souvenir Beaded Bag in Historic Haudenosaunee
(Iroquois) Art.
Morgan,
Lewis Henry
1850 “Report to the Regents of the University, upon
the Articles Furnished to the Indian Collection.” In The Third Annual Report of
the Regents of the University on the Condition of the State Cabinet of Natural
History and Antiquarian Collection, Annexed Thereto pp. 63 – 93. Revised
Edition: Printed by Weed, Parsons and Company, Albany.
1852 “Report on the Fabrics, Inventions,
Implements and Utensils of the Iroquois, Made to the Regents of the University,
Jan. 22, 1851; Illustrative of the Collection Annexed to the State Cabinet of
Natural History, with Illustrations.” In
The Fifth Annual Report of the Regents of
the University on the Condition of the State Cabinet of Natural History and the
Historical and Antiquarian Collection, Annexed Thereto, pp 68 – 117. Printed
by Richard H. Pease, Albany.
Parker,
Arthur C.
1912 “Certain
Iroquois Tree Myths and Symbols” in the American
Anthropologist, Vol. 14
Speck,
Frank
1915 “The
Eastern Algonkian Wabanaki Confederacy” in the American Anthropologist, Vol. 17.
[1945] 1982 “The
Iroquois – A Study in Cultural Evolution.” Cranbrook
Institute of Science Bulletin Twenty-Three. Second Edition.
Tooker,
Elisabeth
1994 Lewis
H. Morgan on Iroquois Material Culture. University of Arizona Press.
interesting Blog Post.... but I want to know how the puzzle purses work. Nowhere do you say or show how they function.
ReplyDeleteCheck out this website as they have some info on making them.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.nativetech.org/clothing/pouch/puzzlepouch/puzzlepouchinstructions.html
I am a leathercrafter. I am making these puzzle pouches. Does anyone know how they passed the cut leather through the holes when the top of the individual pieces are solid with no apparent stitching? Did they sew the cut pieces inside the pouch after passing them through the slits?
ReplyDeleteI own a few old Native American beaded examples and on those the ends of leather "puzzle" strands or strips are indeed sewn to the inside lip of the bag. So, the puzzle element is a separate piece that is inserted through slits/ openings and sewed to the bag.
ReplyDeleteThe puzzle bags in my collection are made from four pieces of leather -- a front with the "puzzle" strips, a back without the strips, and two flaps. The back flap is sewn across the entire top of the bag's back. The front flap is sewn onto the bag front only between the puzzle elements, leaving slits through which the leather strips can be pulled, thus opening the bag. I have several constructed in that manner.
ReplyDeleteI find the puzzle pouch very interesting but I can not picture in my mind exactly how they are put together and how they work. Sure wish I knew someone in my area of northwest Ohio that had one that I could actually see.
ReplyDeleteFollow this link to see how they are constructed.
Deletehttp://www.nativetech.org/clothing/pouch/puzzlepouch/puzzlepouchinstructions.html